July 15, 2024
We arrived in Tellico Plains, Tenn., in the far southeastern corner of the state, finishing a four-hour trek from midstate Chapel Hill, that’s also Tennessee, not North Carolina (the town was named after the North Carolina city). The plan for Tellico was to get a look at farm property a friend is buying just north of town. Then there’s the Cherohala Skyway.
From Chapel Hill we headed east through pretty country, then paused at a Bell Buckle café for coffee. The town offers eccentric Middle Tennessee charm along with the usual antique and curiosity shops. We’ve stopped there a couple of times over the years. The coffee is tangy and good. The town, really a hamlet or village, is home to the Webb School, a small but prestigious boarding school for grades 6 through 12. The kids wear uniforms.

Sitting in the café, we noticed the few local folks who wandered in, a young woman with two kids, an older couple. I guessed this is exactly what we should be doing at this moment: sipping caffeine in a quiet place in the middle of nowhere. It suited me.
We drove south on I-24 to Chattanooga then north on I-75. We crossed the Hiwassee River then exited at Calhoun. Twenty miles along, Tellico Plains sits in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains, where the 656,000-acre Cherokee National Forest rims the few settlements in the area. Maybe 800 people live there, maybe 700, I asked, no one was sure.
Once there you’re cornered between mountains and forest, miles of forest. The Smokies spread across the boundary region of two states. The Skyway, starting at Tellico, extends 43 or 50 miles, depending on how it’s measured. Tennessee has about 25 miles, the rest is in North Carolina. The route (eastbound) ends at some indefinite point just west of Robbinsville, N.C., birthplace of country music legend Ronnie Milsap.

Cherohala combines the first two syllables of “Cherokee,” and “hala,” the last two of Nantahala as in National Forest, which covers 531,000 acres of western North Carolina. The Skyway rises more than 4,000 feet to around 5,400 near the eastern end. The road starts in town and continues tamely for a few miles, bordering the crystal-clear Tellico River.
We stopped at Oosterneck Creek (1,045 feet) and watched the river rush by. As we chugged forward a half-dozen bikers cruised past us heading to Tellico.
The forest air cooled to a refreshing crispness. The Skyway curled up, up, then down, then up. At Lake View we were at 3,360 feet. The deep green of the mountains loomed through pale mist. We watched the mile markers and puttered on. At Brushy Ridge we were at 3,750, then 4,100 at East Rattlesnake Rock trailhead.
More bikers roared past, a couple of cars lined up behind us as we poked nervously forward, we pulled into an overlook to let them pass. We crossed the Tenn.-N.C. border, climbed, then descended, then climbed again, in some stretches at a 9-degree slope. I stopped at Haw Knob (4,890) but crawled past Huckleberry Point at 5,300.
The vernal mountain forest stretched to the horizon. The road turned and descended. We gritted our teeth, the van’s brake warning light clicked on. Wright Cove was at 4,150, Obadiah 3,740, Hooper Cove 3,100. The road twisted down, falling. Suddenly we hit Santeetlah Gap at 2,600 and saw signs for Robbinsville.

We were done with the measured Skyway but the narrow two-lane pavement kept twisting through dense woods, sunlit and beautiful, bordering a rocky creek. A few homesteads showed up alongside small garden plots and woodpiles, meadows and pastureland. Then the forest closed in again.
Eventually we found outer Robbinsville. We saw a church steeple and a couple of signs urging “Repent,” then a courthouse. Highway markers appeared announcing state roads 129, 143, 19, backwoods routes carved through the rough country.
We passed the last point on our state map. No internet connection, no Google Maps. I went old school and yelled at a guy in a parked pickup: “Which way to Bryson City?” He opened his door and pointed.
“Turn around and go back and take the first left. Go to the first light and go right. Keep going ‘til you pass some guys working on the road. Turn right at the next light, then right at the one after that, then stay straight and you’ll see a sign for Bryson City.” I stared at him. “Turn around—” He started to pull away. “I hope you remember that,” he yelled. “I won’t,” I called back and got back in the van.

We squinted again at the signs, I studied the map, baffled. Suddenly the internet kicked in, we got our maps. We oriented to 129 and headed out of Robbinsville. We passed the guys working and pressed on. The road straightened out. We saw a sign: “Bryson City, 23 miles.” The city street became a country highway.
We veered alongside fast white water, I guessed the Tuckasegee River, which flows through Bryson and east. The river rushed past, we saw a bright orange inflated raft float by, the paddlers in their helmets stroking with the rapids. Then another, then a third. The Nantahala closed in around the river and the road. The Tuckasegee flowed by, more rafters riding the fast water.
The forest opened up to white-water businesses, rental places, shuttle buses, a few cafes and bars. Rafters were unpacking vans, lugging gear. The woodland road widened to three-lanes. We saw signs for Dillsboro, Sylva, and Waynesville, which calls itself “Gateway to the Smokies.” We crossed the Appalachian Trail and dozens of other remote pathways.
The peaks towered around us through eastern Nantahala, still lush and jungle-dark, the kudzu hanging in thick tangles from massive oaks. Passing Sylva, we looked north at Black Rock Mountain, green and gorgeous, 5,700 feet of rock set gracefully among the Plott Balsam range. Then the Pisgah National Forest, Nantahala’s junior partner, full of waterfalls and other wilderness magic, stretching east to Asheville, and south toward home.








