October 12, 2026
The scene captures mountains, sea, and forest, set off by white mist. The moon glows above the mountains, which appear pale, their summits rising above the mist in the distance, which is impossible to determine. The water is glassy-calm, mirror-like.
We passed this place on the ship last month, plowing through the Inside Passage, which is the tourist route to and from Alaska, Vancouver, and Seattle. The attraction is the view of glaciers and mountains. More than that, remoteness, the stark wildness of nature, which may bring the senses either to wonder or trepidation.
I could not sleep, keyed up by various things. The cruise was supposed to be an antidote to all that. I stepped out on the deck, I could feel the ship’s gentle movement, ahead under ten knots.
The moon illuminated the channel in a shimmering river of light. It was an image of purity, the air crisp and clean, nature left alone. Inside, Sandy slept, her breathing hushed and even. Others may have been awake and watching, I heard nothing. The vastness of the panorama, the shining water merged with dark, rugged forest-covered spits of land overpowered small thoughts, pettiness, memories.
Months earlier, restless, I sat on the foredeck of a river craft on the Mekong River in Vietnam at 4:00 AM. I had walked down the passageway and pushed through the hatch to the narrow landing one deck above the bow. The boat rode at anchor midriver. A mile to the east the lights of the little river town of Cai Be glowed through the blackness.

The impressions are indelible. Some sights can’t be forgotten.
We did the Alaska sick call in Skagway, then all that ended. We made it to Idaho, but things must be done, appointments kept. We thought about New Jersey. The destination would be the Jersey suburbs of Philadelphia, meaning I-85 through North Carolina to I-95 in Virginia and around Washington to Philly, then the Commodore Barry Bridge over the Delaware.
Years ago we’d drive from Virginia to North Jersey, which meant 95, a punishing trip through Baltimore, into and out of Delaware and across the giant Delaware Memorial Bridge. From the bridge, on a clear day, the towers of Philadelphia are faintly visible to the north. Just below on the Jersey side is the DuPont Chemical megacomplex. Beyond the bridge are the Turnpike and I-295, which loops west up to Trenton.
We’ve done the trip many times. North Jersey was home for me as a kid. Forty years ago we moved from Nashville to Red Bank in Monmouth County, a sort of New York landing zone, 40 miles from the city. Our youngest girl was born there. Second daughter Marie was a toddler. The older two kids, in cute uniforms, went to the local parish school.
Red Bank offered promise, a settled community of well-kept homes clustered along the Navesink River with a busy, prosperous downtown. We rented a place a mile from the shops and restaurants, the kids made friends up and down the street.

It came apart when the federal contractor that hired me lost its biggest contract. Six of us, the contract team, were out on the street. I bought my first computer, an AT&T box with 12KB of memory that ran WordPerfect and Lotus, and started publishing semi-monthly Defense Technology Viewpoint. A few months later New Jersey lost its meaning. We found the house in Virginia and moved out of the rental a year to the day after we moved in.
The Jersey year detached us from the South. The kids picked up something of their Jersey grandmother’s New York roots, her interest in culture, history, world affairs. They escaped the mediocre Tennessee schools. Northern Virginia worked out as a tradeoff, close to multicultural D.C., and good schools, balanced by exploding suburban sprawl and perpetual traffic gridlock. That was 1987.
In following years Virginia tried to relieve congestion by building the Springfield Interchange and widening I-95 between Woodbridge and Washington. The project created high-occupancy vehicle (HOV) lanes restricted to vehicles carrying four occupants, the driver and three passengers—later reduced to three occupants.
The HOV lanes gave birth to the “slug” system, whereby drivers without enough passengers would pick up strangers—“slugs”—to use the restricted lanes. “Slugging” became a way of life for Northern Virginia bureaucrats, a sort of regional cultural eccentricity.
Now, back in the South, the work-school-college years are a sort of blur. We recall vaguely the trip to London for the Farnborough Air Show in 1988, then Paris for the Paris Air Show in 1989. The crash-landing of a Soviet Mig-29 fighter (the USSR still existed) at Paris stands out, for some reason. We went to Rome in 2003 for an anniversary and got to the papal audience in St. Peter’s Square. We found a good spot in the crowd, Pope John Paul II stared down at us.
We went back to Tennessee over the years, to a lakeside cabin near Sandy’s hometown a couple of times. We ran road races, the Nashville marathon eight times, and showed up at weddings and funerals. Sandy’s mom passed in 2015, her sister and brothers-in-law a couple of years ago. We’ve done the family reunions.
The view of the Alaska moon, the water, the mist, the mountains, from my perch on the ship’s upper deck returns and lingers. It seems at the moment to overpower memory, as if the vista of nature’s majesty draws us away from the past. We struggle to move forward, holding on to beauty of the moment.
Maybe we’ll do the Inside Passage cruise again someday, and stand again looking out in the moonlight. Probably not. Memories survive or fade. Nature and its beauty, its mystery and lessons, may remain.






