November 21, 2022
The Swamp Rabbit Trail, really an asphalt bike and walking path, runs northeast about 20 miles from downtown Greenville to somewhere around the little town of Traveler’s Rest. The city built it on an old railroad bed as a tourist attraction. It follows the trickling Reedy River much of the way, past scrub woods, construction sites, and weather-beaten brick structures, the old textile mills now turned into upscale apartments and offices.
The Swamp Rabbit Café sits along the trail maybe three miles from downtown. The slogan, “Eat Local, Ride Bikes” is painted in bold letters above the doors and windows. The café advertises “sustainably sourced” drinks, sandwiches, and pastries “made from scratch.” It’s also a grocery store that offers “artisan” vegetables, beverages and snacks, beer and wine at prices we don’t want to pay.

On a gray, chilly afternoon we drove over and parked at the café. Looking about, I wondered if I were really in Greenwich Village or Haight-Ashbury instead of the Old South. We wandered through the store mainly to warm up. It was late, the place was nearly empty.
We had just observed our two-year anniversary in this town. The idea was to get out of the house and walk a bit, so we set out on the trail, heading south toward downtown. We stayed to the right to allow the cyclists in their multicolored riding outfits to pass. They whizzed by on their ten-speeds and fat-tired mountain bikes. The trail is nearly level—flat—for its entire length. I wondered: how about trying a mountain trail, a bit of a challenge?
We talked as we hiked, but also paused and were silent. We moved away from busy streets. The trail isn’t particularly scenic, you wouldn’t call it beautiful. The river, more of a creek, was on our right, the woods to the left. As we padded along the silence helped ease the tension I felt watching election returns. People everywhere believe preposterous, contemptible lies. Some believe Lee should not have surrendered to Grant in April 1865.
I recalled driving out to the mountains near the North Carolina state line. You pass a no-name gas station that also sells freshly cooked barbeque. The place is done over in Confederate flags. A mile farther up the road is a shack next to a yard littered with busted appliances, tools, and car parts. Often a guy in a straw hat pushes a rake around. A skinny cow grazes in a pen. And I knew it before seeing it—one of those big blue and white banners draped over the fence.
We saw them on fences in Pennsylvania, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia. Lies are everywhere.
Second president John Adams gave us the gold standard on measuring lies against truth. When the eight British soldiers who fired on civilians in the Boston Massacre of March 1770 were charged with murder, Adams agreed to defend them when no other attorney would take the case. He won acquittal for their captain and six of the eight because no evidence was produced against them. Adams then spoke his famous line, “Facts are stubborn things, and whatever may be our wishes, our inclinations, or the dictates of our passions, they cannot alter the state of facts and evidence.” We know Adams borrowed the quote from the Scottish novelist Tobias Smollett. But there it is.
We kept walking, riders and runners kept passing us. The riders tended to be older folks, grayhaired, decked out like twenty-somethings.
The runners were fast young guys and girls in teeshirts and shorts, showing off their sleek, graceful athleticism, within minutes they were dots. I smiled, recalling when I’d run for miles without a second thought. I felt happy watching them snatching these moments to leave their desks and computers to stretch their legs, test their strength, seize the joy of the road.

Watching them disappear up the trail bucked me up, prompting the thought that we all can create goodness for ourselves and others when we summon a reserve of faith and perseverance to confront the hard things that come to our lives. The columnist Michael Gerson, who died last week of cancer at 58, in a talk in 2019 said, “even when strength fails there is perseverance. And when perseverance fails, there is hope. And even when hope fails, there is love. And love never fails.” Gerson, a true Christian, stood his ground against the hard-right so-called “evangelicals.”
The long run, the sickness, the physical or moral pain, offer us a challenge, to steel ourselves to overcome, to find joy.
The runners, as they raced by without noticing us, moving their lives ever forward, reminded me of these things. They demolished my dark thoughts of this political moment.
I moved with more of a spring to my step. We were starting to feel the chill. At a little over a mile we turned back as the afternoon light faded. We crossed a couple of bridges that spanned the Reedy, here and there the water churned in feeble rapids as it flowed toward the city. Lights strung around the café popped on as we approached. We stepped inside, I bought a small cider, eight ounces, for $2.75. “You could buy a half-gallon for $4.00,” Sandy said.
The place had largely emptied out. The evening clouds were moving in, warning of coming rain and cold. The two-year mark is behind us, the holidays are ahead. Our kids are coming for a few days. We headed home, wondering about the latest election updates—no, not really. What’s left to say. The lies are still out there, but so is truth, and hope.



