September 14, 2020

Our friends are on the road. They’re heading to Sedona, Ariz., Albuquerque, N.M., Southport, N.C., Sarasota, Fla., or already have arrived. They chose the seashore, the deserts, the mountains. Others left town for jobs—Austin, small-town Alabama, Saudi Arabia. The plan is normal life in the time of Trump, amidst the cult of Trump, which will be with us when Trump is gone.

I talked over coffee with a friend who had just returned from Idaho, Wyoming, Montana. We compared memories of tall mountains and small towns. Places with dark forests and snow-capped peaks, places we passed through on our summers of adventure.  A few years ago we had fun thinking of moving out there. Family and weather reports induced some sanity.

Since then we’ve looked at the places our friends landed. Now, though, we factor in covid-19, which is Trump’s legacy, along with the popular trends in camouflage uniforms, Confederate flags, AR-15s and bandoleers in public.  Arizona and Florida became disease hotspots. After killing thousands in the Northeast, the pandemic raged amid the palm fronds and gentle breezes along the Gulf Coast, and across the rugged deserts and peaks of the Southwest.

Normal life ended in the spring of 2020. We persevere in our routines, those of us whose lives have not been wrecked by infection or loss of livelihood. We endure as best we can the bitter war between two societies: one that recognizes Trump and Republicans as purveyors of the nation’s multiple, still-unfolding nightmares, and that other universe, the “base”: the White-race culture warriors, the so-called evangelical Christians, the chasers of paranoid conspiracies, the pundits and propagandists of Trumpism.

The virus now has killed more than 190,000 Americans. On Thursday a man at the Trump rally in Michigan said, “I think he’s done a wonderful job.”

“I love the smell of napalm in the morning,” Robert Duvall famously said in “Apocalypse Now,”   a film that echoed the fear and horror of Joseph Conrad’s narrator in Heart of Darkness, thereby to clarify for Americans the viciousness and futility of Vietnam.

Today in America we have entered our own heart of darkness. We created it. We can’t escape it in warm, beautiful places. Americans, starting with the election, may overcome the tragedy we now endure. Overcome it, or perpetuate and deepen it.

The mask thing became a curiosity. Did wearing it make you a Democrat? We still see news footage of crowds without masks, at beaches, in bars, on college campuses, and two weeks ago at the White House. Who’s making critical decisions on covid policy, Fauci, or that renowned epidemiologist, Trump? On our June visit to South Carolina I drove past shops and restaurants. Didn’t see a mask. I recall, only a few months ago, promising Sandy that on our next road trip we’ll make it to the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in Sturgis, S.D.  For sure!

Yet people are pushing on with life: They’re moving now, as they’ve always moved: to turn the page to a new serenity, a new peace. My sister and brother-in-law settled in the Seattle area, my brother moved to Delaware. The tax situation in Delaware is better, but the Cascades are more spectacular than Rehoboth Beach. We know lots of folks who transplanted to North Carolina. A retired Navy captain I know and his wife are looking at New Hampshire and Pennsylvania. Skiers, maybe. Adventure always presents: our son got a job offer in New Zealand. Fortunately, he didn’t take it. The covid-19 safeguards are more effective there. I know people who have moved from quiet places, the places they were born, to settle in congested, expensive northern Virginia suburbs because their children are here.

The alternative—stay put. I look around at Mass and see oldsters I’ve known for thirty-plus years, now white-haired and slow-moving, still here, going nowhere. They think: why leave just because others are leaving? Their homes are paid for, their kids, maybe nearby, maybe not. Maybe no kids. I see widows and widowers. Here for the long count.

I thought we were members of that crew. As readers here recall, we talked and talked about what to do. We could sit tight and avoid the move hassle, the real-estate search rat race, the change of cemetery plans. We argued for and against cities and small towns, villages, and hamlets. Western North Carolina, East Tennessee, North Georgia, southern Virginia. Occasionally for fun I’d throw out Mexico, Costa Rica, Ecuador (I have a cousin there).

As we debated, at least a hundred times I’ve reminded Sandy of our pre-covid night at Picacho Peak State Park in Picacho, Ariz., two years ago. It was mid-September, hot as blazes. We gasped and sweated in our airless van. Finally we fell asleep.

Around 2:00 AM I awoke and stepped out of the van. It was cool and clear, the moon bright above us, lighting the desert. I climbed a slight rise. I could see for miles across the sand and scrub the glowing headlights of long-haul trucks crawling along I-10. The place was silent and lovely, a setting of peace. I felt in those moments the presence of God. Sublime, in a way that could never be routine. That was then. Now, I look for my mask.  

September 7, 2020

A county DPW crew began tearing up our neighborhood streets last week, just before we got our “coming soon” sign. In 90F heat we watched the huge, noisy milling machines chew up the old asphalt and spit it behind them. Bobcats scooped it up and poured it in dump trucks, the kind with eight spare wheels. The workmen stopped on our lawn for a break, relaxing in the shade. We brought them water. Hot weather, hot work.

Amidst all that, a Long & Foster guy finessed his way in and put up the bright red sign in the middle of the yard, reminding us that our life is about to become truly bizarre. The idea is to get closer to our daughter Marie, son-in-law Mike, and grandsons outside Greenville, S.C. For my last place on this earth I like the idea of looking out the front door down a mountain. The Greenville-Asheville-Knoxville triangle has plenty of those. My idea, not Sandy’s.

The kids arrived late the night of the sign-mounting, for a last-ever visit to the house Marie grew up in. The next morning the paver chugged through. I walked with the boys down the block to watch. A vehicle fitted with a rotating set of teeth tore into the milled surface and reduced it to dust. The bobcat scooted through and grabbed the residue. Then the paver appeared from around the block, linked with a truck that fed fresh asphalt into the paver’s maw. The giant machine spewed the hot mix of chemicals and stone onto the milled surface and pressed it flat. Workmen followed, shoveling a rough slew of stones on the steaming surface. A giant roller then bonded the asphalt and stones to create the new street.

Later that morning the agent dropped off flyers for a box next to the sign. I smiled at the blurb: “well-maintained home ready for you to start the next chapter of your life.” Who’s “you?”

It’s the standard real estate jargon. I’m hoping the flyer isn’t pitched, maybe unintentionally, only to people looking to start a new chapter. They can do that without the expense and hassle of buying a new house.

I get strung up by family about my pencil-chewing way of looking at things. Yes, we’re relocating to someplace else. We don’t need the melodrama. The old chapter is okay, basically.  

We expected the sign to get here end of the week, allowing a few more days of doubt, ambiguity. It showed up early. We looked out the window, there it was.  I felt my throat tighten. No turning back.

I looked at the freshly paved, freshly pressed new street. Something metaphysical about that? A new street, a new start. Too cute.

It’s there, in front of us. This place, somehow, no longer fits. People we’ve known for years have left or are leaving. We ask ourselves: after 33 years in a subdivision built for commuters in a forest of subdivisions built for commuters, what else is there? How would somewhere else be different?

Whatever there is, we have to earn it. The discipline needed to improve and upgrade still is alien to me.  The agent advised “refreshing” the kitchen. That evening I removed the cabinet doors, then gave a day to sanding, tacking, priming, and painting. They look better. Not beautiful, but better.

At least a dozen chores remain undone: the dent in the siding. The flaking caulk near the door. The amateur repair job on the downstairs molding. The flecks of misplaced paint. And so on. Our buyer will have to endure his old chapter a little longer

They’re undone because for so many years we looked away and did other things. I went back to school and got my master’s. Sandy worked for three different federal contractors. We escaped a lot. We visited our kids in Pennsylvania and Colorado. We traveled to Wilmington, N.C., and Tallahassee to see friends and attended the Florida State graduation. We got to Nashville to visit family and friends and run races. We both entered the Las Vegas marathon, finishing on the Strip, I recall, on a freezing November night. On that trip we drove to St. George, Utah, for lunch. I ran half-marathons in Tampa and ultra trail races in West Virginia.

We bought plane tickets to the west four summers in a row for trips that involved ultra events and created adventures. The main event started in the ghost town of Pony, Mont. Before the race we drove from Bozeman to Columbia Falls, skirted spectacular Flathead Lake, visited Glacier National Park. We explored the dinosaur museum in Bynum (pop. 31) and stopped at Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, along I-90 just above the Wyoming state line. Sandy treated me to five-dollar haircut in Sheridan, Wyo. We walked around Devil’s Tower, north of Gillette. We visited Yellowstone and Grand Teton. We drove from Breckenridge, Colo., to Ennis, Mont., taking back roads through Steamboat Springs and Craig to Baggs, Wyo., and Victor and Driggs, Idaho.

Then there was the Road Trip that gave birth to this blog.

I kid Sandy about moving to Harper (her maiden name), Texas. We blew through it two years ago. An exotic animal farm just outside town. A home-cooking-style café. A city park, a cemetery. What else do we need?  She doesn’t laugh.

Through all those years I did the minimum: mowed the grass in the summer, put down seed, did some inside painting. We hired contractors for a new chimney, windows, roof, no longer new. After all these years the place isn’t finished. The sale goes “live” in three weeks. We’re scrambling on these things. Meanwhile our mailman is still showing up every day, but often not until late afternoon. Trump would like to see him take some time off, maybe join a right-wing paramilitary outfit. The parish is still holding a weekly holy hour for prayers to end the pandemic. We’re waiting for that new chapter. In the meantime, maybe the country will get one.

August 31, 2020

Our 42nd wedding anniversary slipped by last week as we recovered, slowly, from five days of house painting (walls, ceiling, baseboard) and another of electrical work. We had beat ourselves up hauling most of our furniture down to the basement. We lived out of boxes while the painters were here. So it was an anniversary like no other. Like any other, you only get to 42 once.

As we start year 43, we’re at an unsettled time, putting it mildly. On anniversary morning the house phone rang. It was a recorded message from Donald Trump Jr., just for me. I didn’t stay on the line long, but he must have been following up the red, white, and blue brochure from the Virginia Republican Party we received yesterday, the one with the big picture of Don Jr.’s dad. How did Don get my number? Probably the same way he got yours.

We said “Happy Anniversary” to each other and went to Mass, but we haven’t made a big deal out of anniversaries for a while. They seem to come up when we’re preoccupied with other things. That morning a friend helped me install a new closet door. I called him after I spent two hours on it.

We were restless, distracted.  Other things are going on, the house still is full of paint dust, the electrical outlets still are uncovered, the kitchenware and most of our clothes are stashed. We’re feeling pressure to stay focused on the Move.

We talked about other anniversaries, as usual. Like most codgers, I wear listeners out with my “I remember when … .” shtick. We started off by getting married at St. Mary’s in Nashville, Tennessee’s oldest Catholic church. We recalled our 16th: we went to New York and stayed in a classy hotel along Central Park South. A while back, out of curiosity, I checked on the hotel, it’s been acquired by a chain. For our 20th the kids treated us to a Potomac dinner cruise. They arranged it as a surprise, picked us up and, in a feinting maneuver, drove us through parts of D.C. we never had seen before dropping us at the pier. Nice memory.

For our 25th we went to Rome. That was a big deal. We explored the ruins, the museums, took a train to Florence. We got standing room tickets to the Pope’s public audience (John Paul II) and got lucky, pushed by the crowd to the front. As his official Jeep passed us, I caught his eye as he scanned the Square. I imagined him thinking: this one needs work.

After that, though, memories of big wedding anniversary events trail off. For most we exchanged cards and went to dinner or lunch. These last few days I’ve been going through withdrawal on memories of our August 2018 U.S. 66 road trip. The day before the anniversary we arrived in Las Vegas after a sweltering drive from Flagstaff, Ariz., with a stop in Sedona. That anniversary, number 40, was the turnaround point on the trip. The next day we flew home to start my 18-month sentence of cancer therapies. Last year we perked up a bit—a quick overnight trip to Richmond.

I’ve recycled those last two in this space. Chances are I’ll mention them again next year, if I’m still posting, more to the point, if I make it to 43.  Edwin Newman, the mild-mannered, brilliant grammar martinet for NBC and later PBS captured what I mean with his lighthearted, and immortal, “You know, you never know.”

We all feel that way, don’t we? Right now it’s hard to think far ahead. We’re transfixed by the prospect of a cataclysm this November. The Republicans had their convention last week, the Trump children and a battalion of grovelers and courtiers prepared the ground for a further avalanche of lies. Whether you are hoping the country returns to the rational world or continues on the current headlong slide into the Trump cesspool, you’re engaged. Everyone is engaged, but also exhausted and angry. Everyone is a pundit, no one is neutral on this one. And no one is thinking right now about what happens after election day.

It’s always fascinating, on wedding anniversaries, to resurrect memories of the Big Day. No matter the setting, elaborate or simple, rain or shine, you stood there with your about-to-be spouse and made all those promises, with absolutely no idea what was going to happen next. You never know, right? You didn’t know where you would be on anniversary One, never mind five, 10, etc. So you look back on all those years and ask yourself, how was it for her/him? What have I learned? What kind of a person was I then, who am I now?

You try to recall the things you did to mark anniversaries, depending on how many, and how sharp you are, until you land on today. And you ask yourself: if I had tried to guess on my wedding day where I’d be today, and who I am—how close was I to the truth?

This isn’t profound or complicated or just for married people. Anyone can pick a long-ago milestone and follow it to today.

The real point of all this is that today is just a stopping point, a way station. We’re still, as St. Thomas says, becoming. You’re not yet the person who will stand at the pearly gates and ask to get in. Recalling a common nugget of pre-Christian wisdom, the Greek historian Heraclitus advised us, or warned us, we never step in the same river twice.

We all know these things, somehow. Maybe that’s why we’re all nervous about the election. Bottom line: regardless of our politics, we’ll all march on, happy or unhappy on January 20, 2021. Then we’ll wake up, look back in joy or regret—like on any anniversary—and get ready for next year.

August 24, 2020

We made it to Widewater  State Park last week, getting out the way of the paint crew. The point wasn’t to see Widewater, exactly, but a slice of Virginia—the Potomac shore—that doesn’t get much attention. The place abuts the desolate riverbank maybe 20 winding miles south of Quantico, 25 miles north of Fredericksburg. The drive is kind of a chore, off U.S. 1, then local roads into thick woods, vernal in the summer humidity. You see a few homes, then trees and fields, a CSX track cut straight through forest, a few more lonely-looking houses, more trees. I can’t remember more than two other cars in 20 miles.

As we struggle to extricate ourselves from Virginia—at this point, departure is still in our heads—I recognize, and regret, that we’ll leave without walking through and learning from the mystery and power of so many of the wild, beautiful places around us. But then, everyone moves on. Experience of any place always is incomplete, finite. Our time is finite.

Not much was going on at Widewater. Kayaking and a short hiking trail are all that’s available.  We saw exactly one person in the parking lot, a woman going for a run on the trail. We drove in, looked around, then left and headed to Fredericksburg. We checked that box, a minor one, and moved on.

The drive reminded me of my visits, years ago, to the Navy base at Dahlgren, on the river farther south. The Navy tests new shipboard deck guns there by firing them over the river, it’s that wide. Those trips, along State Road 218, took me through similar terrain, maybe with a bit more up and down. But the state’s Potomac shores don’t resonate much. Geography isolates the area, miles east of I-95. Fredericksburg, the nearest city, gets along on tourism and the retirement industry.  The miles of woodland along the east-west backroads fill up with lush, fast-growing plant life in the stifling summers, thick masses of kudzu and other vinery. The Potomac, shallow, slow-moving, murky (but semi-clean, it’s now reported), gives the region a thick jungle-like feel. Although an outsider, I get the sense that not much ever happens here.

If you head farther south beyond Dahlgren on 218 you get to Colonial Beach, another off-the-main-road, more or less seedy place where some folks go for long weekends. We spent the night in a beat-up B&B there some years ago, on a detour to somewhere else. Neglect is the word that occurred to me. A casino disguised as an old paddlewheeler sat offshore, technically in Maryland, where gambling is legal. (The Virginia-Maryland boundary is at the Virginia shoreline, so the body of the river is in Maryland.)  I hear the casino’s long gone.

Further on, you’re in the rural Northern Neck. Twenty-five years ago the bishop of Arlington, wanting to get rid of a controversial young priest, packed him away to Kilmarnock, the far southern end of the Neck, at the only parish for many miles. And I mean many miles. I heard of him again maybe two years ago, now in a mountain parish on the opposite side of the state.

Potomac Virginia leaves light footprints. Moving south from D.C., you have tourist-overrun Old Town Alexandria, now mostly famous for its real estate values. Then majestic Mount Vernon, directly across from Fort Washington, part of the capital’s Civil War defense, never needed. Next is the Army post, Fort Belvoir. Then not much for the few miles to Pohick Bay and Mason Neck parks, mainly circuitous hiking trails hard along Belmont Bay.

Down from Mason Neck, a stretch of swampy woods, the Occoquan and Featherstone “wildlife refuges” line the shore. They’re bordered by several miles of Woodbridge’s finest auto-repair shops and an Amtrak-CSX track in a neighborhood where no one wants to live. Leesylvania State Park is a nice spot, with a marina and walking trails, but as with the other river-border parks, not worth (to me) the price of admission. Then you come to Quantico, “Q-town,” the three-street afterthought with a rail station next to the Marine Corps base, the “Crossroads of the Corps.” Again, farther on, not much. Then Widewater.

I know we’ll depart this neighborhood eventually, after 33-plus years, having spent most of our non-working days, weeks, and months missing the unique stories that surround us. I don’t know much of it, but history surely was made in these near-empty rivershore places. Colonial troops tramped through those forests in 1781 en route to Yorktown to defeat British General Cornwallis, ensuring the new nation would be born. In early 1862 Union General George McClellan reluctantly sailed his Army of the Potomac downriver to Fort Monroe for the Peninsula campaign, eventually a humiliating failure. Lincoln fired him soon thereafter.

That’s the famous, or relatively famous history, the big-war history. I know that if we poked around a bit more, we’d stumble on unique stories of ordinary folks, not generals or even colonels, who lived productive lives here, but now are forgotten. I think about that as I recall stories of another Virginia culture, the mountain people of the Shenandoahs, who worked small subsistence farms and mines until they were pushed off their property in the early 1930s, when the feds established the National Park. No one thinks about them any more.

So appreciation and regret are colliding for us: the spruce-up of the house comes along with a blank slate, the future somewhere else. The plan now is to persevere, to figure these things out, without being distracted by the perversions of government we read about every day, which become more bizarre every day. The Democrats assure us things will be OK in November, when Putin, Kim Jong Un, and Xi Jinping lose their guy in the White House, along with the sniveling criminals and moral gnomes who work for him.

That would play well in these parts. It’s still a crapshoot. Today, setting aside all that, we’re counting the blessings we see around us while seeking the stories around us, hoping to learn from those stories lessons that will endure, here or anywhere.

August 17, 2020

We left downtown Pittsburgh after a quick trip to deliver furniture to our daughter Laura, who moved there a few months ago. Our idea was to get out of Pennsylvania without retransiting the 100-plus miles of the PA turnpike, which we’ve done beaucoup times. We headed west instead of east on I-376 out of downtown, across the Monongahela River, which flows into the Allegheny at the city’s Point State Park to form the mighty Ohio.

Before we left I got to Mass at the cathedral with a small gathering of other nervous mask wearers.  I did notice mask use at around 50 percent in the city. UPitt students arriving for the new semester mostly went without.

We made some bad turns but then settled onto U.S. 51, also called Saw Mill Run, for a slow slog through the Pittsburgh’s gritty underside: the minor-league mills, machine shops, auto dealerships, auto and truck service centers, and truckstops that line the twisting four-lane highway. We passed through Dormont, Lakewood, West Mifflin, Jefferson Hills, other places, before seeing the sign for Clairton, site of a plant within U.S. Steel’s Mon Valley works, the largest coke-making facility in the country. The highway gave us good views of Ronnie’s Tire Service, Overbrook Tire Yard, Sunny Side Auto, Pittsburgh Auto Depot, and Boulevard Motor Mart, among others, as we battled sluggish traffic. Somewhere on this stretch the van hit 100,000 miles.

We had traveled this way or a similar way in the opposite direction years ago, following someone’s friendly suggestion for avoiding the monotonous, toll-heavy turnpike, which allows you to shoot across the state in good time but forces you to maneuver among eighteen-wheelers, lots of them. Sandy still reminds me the route stretched the trip to over seven hours but—funny—I don’t remember it as so bad.

I wasn’t seeing familiar sights along 51—that last trip was a dozen years ago—but southwestern Pennsylvania isn’t going to change much. Then too, the road always looks different in the opposite direction. If either of us thought we’d sail through suburbs into pristine farm country, we both were wrong. Highway 51 is a business route, Pennsylvania is a business state, and the western end of it is all business. This wedge of the state, squeezed between Pittsburgh, Wheeling, W.Va., and the smaller city of Uniontown, aptly named, is organized to help people make a hard living at a time when business isn’t so great.

We learned that Uniontown, about 50 miles south of Pittsburgh, was established July 4, 1776. The city once was a major iron and steel center, and is the site of a bloody fight between coal miners and armed guards during the miners’ strike of 1894. Eventually the polluting, metals-intensive industries that dominated the region contracted and mostly faded away.

We crossed the Monongahela again at Elizabeth and passed through Webster, Perryopolis, Star Junction, and Flatwoods, all behind us within minutes. North of Uniontown, we started to see flashes of corn and pasture.

We skirted the city, heading west for a few miles to find U.S. 40 east, a stretch of which once was called the National Road, National Turnpike, or Cumberland Pike, and is said to be the country’s first major improved road. Between 1811 and 1837 it was carved from wilderness to link the Potomac and Ohio Rivers. The Road supported industrial growth and eased travel through Pennsylvania and Ohio. Eastbound, it rises and falls through rugged, mostly empty country. This is one of those corners of the Keystone State where you see Confederate flags and faded “Trump-Pence” signs and bumper stickers left over from 2016. They probably still reflect local thinking.

We drove to Titusville in the state’s far northwest in October of that year for the Oil Creek 100-mile run. Trump banners hung from every barn and fence in every town, village, and hamlet north of Bedford. I guessed the cows were voting Republican. The political handicappers who never understood what happened on Election Day should have driven my route. Folks wanted a take-charge guy and swallowed the hype. Now, in these quiet places, covid-19 is in charge.

We stopped for lunch at a flag-draped outdoor barbeque joint next to the Stone House Inn near Chalk Hill, a clearing in the forest. The beers are $2, the brisket sandwiches $14. Hank Williams classics blared from the sound system. Nobody wore masks. We got hot dogs and hit the road. Five miles further on we passed the Fort Necessity National Battlefield, site of a small engagement that some historians say started the French and Indian War.

I looked it up: in early 1754 Virginia’s governor sent 21-year-old Col. George Washington here, then the western end of the Virginia colony, with a small force of British soldiers and Virginia militia. They built the fort to block incursions by French traders.  In July 600 French troops attacked, Washington surrendered. The French burned the fort. War broke out two years later.

We stayed on the National Road through Flat Rock and crossed Youghiogheny River Lake, amazed at the rows of boats tied up in this (to us) inconspicuous place. Then it was up another mountain, then down, and we were at I-68. The interstate follows the National Road to what was the Road’s eastern terminus at Cumberland, Md., an Allegheny factory town that would fit nicely in either Pennsylvania or West Virginia.

Rural highways are rural highways, in Virginia, Pennsylvania, anywhere. Setting out, you want to feel the energy of the country in folks at work as they confront hardship, then the tranquility and vastness of mountains and forests. Along the highways, in the congested and the quiet places, life pushes forward. We got a sense of the crisis, but also of hope and courage.

Interstate 68 threads the narrow strip of western Maryland. Traffic picks up then slows. At Hancock we jumped on I-70 toward Frederick. The usual turn then is onto I-270 down to the Capital Beltway into Virginia. Instead, I swung onto I-81 at Hagerstown and coasted the 30 or so miles to I-66. The pale Massanuttens, smoky-blue in the late sun, rise suddenly to seize the Virginia horizon from Front Royal across to Strasberg and beyond. Almost home.