March 7, 2022
The Stoney-Baynard ruins fits oddly within the sleek tourist world of Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. The ruins, a hulk of the remains of a 220-year old plantation house and three outbuildings, stand in a patch of woods near the island’s southern tip.
Sandy and I thought a two-day jaunt down to Hilton Head would be a good idea. We had never been there, we’d heard good reviews. At the time we were struggling to grasp the cataclysmic impact of Putin’s 120 tactical battalions murdering Ukrainians and demolishing their cities, the unleashing of pure evil against humanity. The Putin tank and artillery columns were abetted by the MAGA cadre of useful idiots and fellow travelers, who meanwhile cheered a “convoy” of adult crybabies driving trucks to D.C. to protest vaccine mandates.
We thought we needed a brief change of scenery. Getting out of town to walk on a warm and quiet beach seemed the right thing.
Hilton Head usually is mild in late February, but not this year. We gambled on the forecast and lost. The rain thundered down sideways on the five-hour drive that should have been four hours, as angry clouds coiled above us. Shivering, we checked into a hotel at the northern end of the shoe-shaped island. Still, we thought we should see the beach. “It’s a short walk just past the pool,” the desk clerk said with a smile. We slogged out there, our jackets pulled tight.
On a sunny day the beach would have been beautiful to those who enjoy beaches. The white expanse stretched in both directions to the horizon. The sand sloped gently into low dunes that vanished into thick junglelike forest, no sign of the reckless development that produces the grim three- or four-story rental properties found at many expensive shore playgrounds. Here and there we saw markings of protected sea turtle nests.
Dark gray waves pounded the sand, the wind howled. We hustled inside before our teeth started chattering.
The overcast held firm the next day but the rain tapered off. We drove slowly south, getting a good look at the area, which is swamp-flat, like the rest of the East Coast from Virginia to Florida.

I noticed the Stoney-Baynard site on a map as we found our way to Sea Pines, a cluster of upscale neighborhoods and strip malls and a couple of marinas at the southern end of the island. The Sea Pines Community Association charges admission (private cars, $8.00) to visitors who long to shop and dine there. With the lousy weather, sitting on the beach was out. We paid the eight bucks.
We drove through the tollgate and cruised under giant oaks festooned with Spanish moss, which evokes for me Old South mystery and romance novels and the shady wealth of modern-day pirates and reclusive retirees. The houses along the quiet side streets were mostly hidden by tall hedges and underbrush. Yard-care crews were trimming, mowing, and planting, as if anticipating the drive-by gawking season.
The ubiquitous semi-tropical green was soothing, but the place prompted intimations of exclusivity I’ve sensed in similar communities: the Hamptons, Kiawah Island just south of Charleston, and Sea Island, Ga., where residents’ net worth almost compels them to nest in such places. Golf, of course, was everywhere, with warnings of golf-cart crossings nearly every block. Living in these oases of greenery offers a choice of hobbies: golf, tennis, visiting other similar settlements, and watching your investments. Bowling? Unlikely.
After some car touring we walked through the strip malls, but skipped the spas and the boutiques. We browsed through shops at the “Salty Dog” complex near the water. They mostly resembled the souvenir outlets at Virginia Beach or Atlantic City: racks and stacks of tee shirts and sweatshirts emblazoned “Hilton Head” or “Sea Pines,” ball caps, towels, the usual. Even in late February customers were lining up at the register to buy them, some folks wanted two or three.

After getting lunch we were about to say so long to Sea Pines when I spied a sign for the ruins. This place surely has some history, I thought. I made a U-turn and we followed the directions. We parked near two other vehicles and hiked up a narrow trail through a bamboo jungle. Around a turn, in a small clearing, we saw the ruins. Another visitor was pausing to read the historical marker, we waited, he moved on.
The history of the ruins is that Captain Jack Stoney, who fought as a privateer in the Revolution, built a grand house on the site in 1793 using a Carolina-unique type of cement called “tabby.” Stoney was killed in a hunting accident in 1821 and his sons James and John inherited the property. William Baynard, a local plantation owner, bought it around 1840. One yarn that juices the history a bit is that in 1837 Baynard won the property from John in a poker game. Union soldiers arrived in 1861 and the Baynard family fled. The soldiers eventually burned the place.
What’s left is part of the walls of the main house and some of the tabby-stone blocks marking the site of the slave quarters and overseer’s house, and the foundation of a structure occupied by the soldiers. Like many curiosities of dubious historical significance (to me), it’s on the National Register of Historic Places.
We stared at the remains of the plantation house. Another path through the woods led to the outbuildings. The other visitors had disappeared. We looked at the rest of the site then followed the trail, which curved through thick woods to a quiet street lined with large homes. We walked along the grassy shoulder under the trees. A woman with a dog gave us the once-over, no doubt debating whether to call the police. We nodded and kept walking.
Soon we found the trail back to the ruins. I reread the history of Captain Stoney and the strange end to his once-prominent plantation house. The clearing was quiet, deserted. The spot and its glimpse of local history rated only a brief stop. I wondered about those violent moments in 1865, when the house went up in flames. We paused. In that moment the images and sounds of Russian savagery returned. The silence and the soft feel of the green woodland offered a touch of calm. I thought of Ash Wednesday and Lent, the season of preparation and atonement. We turned and moved forward.





