November 11, 2024
Downtown Austin, bounded by the Colorado River, shows off its Texas glitz. The capital of the Long Star State offers a powerful dose of urban-slash-cowboy energy, outshining Dallas, San Antonio, Houston. The grand, rawboned state history is here, the big tech is here, the political clout, like it or not, is here, along with about a million Texans. They say it and it’s true: everything is big in Texas. Especially in Austin.

South Congress Street, lined with hip bars and restaurants filled with young Texans, opens a spectacular vista of city and river astride the Hill Country, which seems to go on forever. The sun is high and hot most of the time, excruciating in summer, mild in winter. Mild, unless there’s a deep freeze that shuts down the power grid, which happened in 2021 when the mercury fell below zero for four days.
The heart of downtown is the lineup of skyscrapers bracketing the State Capitol. The Capitol is Texas-massive, ringed by broad, sloping lawns. The rotunda, lined with governors’ portraits, fills the dome.
The building was erected using Texas limestone and granite shaped by Scottish stonecutters. The work, mostly by prison labor, started in 1882 and took six years The limestone gives the building a unique off-tan shade, distinguishing it from the typical white marble used for government palaces.
Nick and I had connected with Scott for another THuG running group reunion, this time on Scott’s home ground. He led us up the Capitol steps and past the tourists who craned their necks, as we did, to take in the grandeur. We strolled the main floor corridor beneath a 20-foot-high ceiling past legislators’ offices. It was Friday, the politicos had headed back to their districts.

The nearby Bullock State Museum tells the vast story of Texas. Native Americans populated the territory a half-dozen millennia ago. They fought with each other and disappeared, new tribes arrived and vanished. The Spanish arrived looking for gold and over centuries formed alliances with some tribes and persecuted others.
The birth of the State of Texas is a revered and famous story. American pioneers started arriving in the territory, then a huge chunk of Mexico, in the early 1800s, led by Stephen F. Austin, a refugee from Missouri and Arkansas. The settlers fought with the natives and established homesteads.
Austin, now called the Father of Texas, led the Texas Revolution, starting in late 1835. In an immortal few weeks in February and March 1836, Mexican general Santa Ana led 1,500 troops against 200 Americans at the Alamo. The Americans were slaughtered, but a month later General Sam Houston defeated the Mexicans at the Battle of San Jacinto, which lasted just 18 minutes.
Houston and Santa Ana signed the Treaty of Velasco, which created the Republic of Texas. Texas was a sovereign nation for ten years. The U.S annexed Texas in December 1845, inciting the Mexican War (1846-1848).

We headed out to Scott’s place in the Hill Country, where the thick scrub cedars and mesquite are parched by drought. Austin has extended into broad suburbs that show off prosperity in a mix of eclectic Southwest designs. Right-wing tycoon Elon Musk and podcaster Joe Rogan have homes out there, among a nest of tech entrepreneurs and celebrities. Willie Nelson, who made the PBS show Austin City Limits famous, has a couple of places around town.
The Ausin cachet as a quirky, offbeat, innovative place attracts folks and companies looking for a place to, they hope, find new prosperity as they create new lives. The word is that Austin now is America’s leading city for bachelorette parties, we saw a few of those, the girls having fun on the dance floor in their leather and cowboy hats.
Big Tech is here: Tesla (they’re everywhere downtown), Space-X, Musk’s Tesla space-exploration offshoot, Apple, Google, Oracle, AMD. The town is Silicon Valley Southwest. The downtown University of Texas campus of around 100,000 students is a reservoir of high-tech talent, engineers, hardware and software guys and gals.
The town exploits its Texas connections: San Antonio, site of the Alamo and the River Walk, is a two-hour drive, Dallas is three, Houston, maybe two and a half on interstates 35 and 10, where 80 mph is about average. For the Austinites, though, especially the young newcomers, those places are yesterday’s news.

The quirkiness is balanced by a harder edge. Texas, including Austin is about business, big business: first big farming, then big ranching, now big energy. High tech and high culture are appreciated, but the economy is about the oil and gas business. The State Museum dedicates a long corridor to the energy boom and bust, mostly boom. We recall watching “Dallas,” the 1980s prime-time sermon of good and evil. In some ways it offered a nugget of truth.
We drove around, the big Trump banners, hardly needed to sell the locals, were still out. A bunch of Harris-Walz signs still stood scattered here and there, showing some Democratic blue in an ocean of Republican red.
So Austin is exciting, creative, booming, a dynamic place that celebrates its rowdy history while enjoying its hot streak across what used to be empty prairie. The town shows off sophistication and polish, the good times are still rolling, the suburbs are exploding across the boondocks and prairies, which still are most of Texas. Austin folks are preaching a hard case. Worth a listen, at least.






