November 17, 2025
Our Virginia running group went back to Bayse, Virginia, last weekend, a remote little place just west of Mount Jackson and New Market in Shenandoah County. Alex, one of the oldtimers, owns a house in Bayse, so we had a place to stay. We did our traditional things, mountain hikes, cocktails, trading stories. These semi-annual get-togethers seem more important now.
On Sunday morning nearly everyone left, Kevin and I stayed one more night so I could drop him at Dulles for a Monday flight. On Sunday afternoon we wanted to get away from Bayse’s dense forest and narrow mountain roads. Alex had mentioned the Virginia Museum of the Civil War in New Market. Why not, we thought.
These were the last days of the federal shutdown, while the government is blowing up boats and people in the Caribbean. The political parties and everyday folks are at each other’s throats, the country is torn apart. We have no leaders of boldness, character, and integrity. The Civil War, represented in that little museum along a rural interstate, seemed the right metaphor.
The graceful structure houses exhibits, photos, and artifacts that capture the full panorama of the war: the angry debate over slavery, the first shots at Fort Sumter, the exhausted end at Appomattox. But why here, in this place? Virginia was the setting for major Civil War engagements: Bull Run, Chancellorsville, the Wilderness, the Peninsula, Fredericksburg, Petersburg, Richmond. Why New Market, in the boondocks 150 miles from Richmond?
There’s the American Civil War Museum, with a site at Appomattox, where Confederate General Robert E. Lee surrendered to Union General Ulysses Grant on April 9, 1865, and a second site at Tredegar Iron Works in Richmond. There’s a National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg. Here in Greenville, S.C., we have the Museum and Library of Confederate History.
But New Market is the right place for commemoration of a fight on May 15, 1864, when a few thousand Confederates routed a larger Union force. The background: Grant sent Gen. Franz Sigel with about 9,000 men to take control of the Shenandoah Valley, which extends east-west roughly from the Blue Ridge mountains to the West Virginia state line. Grant expected Sigel to sweep through the Valley then turn east against Lee at Richmond.
Some 4,000 rebels were commanded by Gen. John Breckenridge, who had been vice president under President James Buchanan, then served in the Senate from Kentucky. Initially he supported preserving the Union, but when war started went with the rebels. At New Market, 247 cadets of the Virginia Military Institute in Lexington, ages 15 to 18, stepped forward as Breckenridge’s reserve.
Breckenridge took the initiative and attacked a leading edge of Sigel’s force, an infantry brigade and a cavalry brigade. Sigel’s main force was massed north of Bushong’s Farm. The rebels pushed the Yankees past the town of New Market. They paused their attack to reorganize, when Sigel’s troops opened fire. The Confederates retreated. At that point, it’s reported, Breckenridge reluctantly called the VMI cadets to advance.
The Yankees attacked but were driven back by Confederate artillery fire. As the rebels moved forward, several cadets lost their shoes in the mud, which later prompted the sobriquet “Field of Lost Shoes.” Union Gen. Sigel ordered a retreat, the Yanks broke off and headed north to Strasburg.
Union casualties came to 93 killed, more than 500 wounded, the Confederates lost 43 dead, 475 wounded. But the rebs had more heartbreak. Five of their combat dead were VMI cadets. Five more later died of wounds, 50 others were wounded. These were teenage boys.
Grant replaced Sigel with Gen. David Hunter, who advanced south through summer as far as Lynchburg. In Lexington he burned VMI. Lee sent Gen. Jubal Early to counterattack. Early advanced north to the Potomac and burned Chambersburg, Penn., in August. In October Union Gen. Phil Sheridan routed Early at Cedar Creek near Strasburg. Historians argue Sheridan’s victory helped ensure Lincoln’s reelection.
By October the war had shifted east to Richmond and Petersburg, which the Yankees had held under siege since spring. Vicious fighting continued until April, when Lee was cornered and asked for Grant’s surrender terms at Appomattox.
The New Market museum captures all this. A large window on the north side of the building looks out at the “Lost Shoes” field where those young kids, thrown into bloody combat by adults, charged into enemy guns. The museum offers a graphic video of the recreation of the battle, including the agonies of those dying boys.

In the cruel history of the war, their suffering was pointless. The minor Confederate victory at New Market had no impact on Grant’s relentless campaign against Lee. The Union forces, superior in men and resources and supported by the North’s industrial strength, would not be defeated by the agrarian South and its brave but smaller, poorer army.
The accepted figure for Civil War deaths is around 620,000. The American Battlefield Trust estimates that for every three men who died in combat, five died from non-combat-related disease. Their sacrifice is immortalized in museums, from Richmond, the Confederate capital, to Harrisburg, to Greenville, to dozens of other cities. They were Americans.
Lincoln’s generous dream for Reconstruction died with him. In following decades the country plunged into a nightmare of racism, violence, and corruption that has resurfaced today.
On Friday afternoon, on my way to Bayse, I pulled off I-81 at Lexington and drove through downtown. I passed upscale restaurants, coffee shops, boutiques. At VMI a ceremony was going on. Hundreds of cadets in their sharp uniforms were completing a formation. Officers in the active-duty military services stood supervising. I didn’t stop.
About 80 miles farther north I passed New Market. I could see the museum off to the west, abutting the Field of Lost Shoes and the rebuilt Bushong farmhouse. I wasn’t thinking about what happened there in May 1864. We are thinking about America. We have no Lincoln. What we have are lessons, taught, perhaps, at New Market.






